Apply eye drops ten to fifteen minutes before starting your makeup to whiten the whites of your eyes and brighten their overall appearance. Blue eyedrops not only counteract red eyes but also really make the whites of your eyes look super white.
If you need to curl your eyelashes, do it now, before applying makeup. Hold the eyelash curler as close to the roots of your lashes as possible and squeeze gently but firmly.
Apply a concealer around the entire orb of your eyes, both below your eyes as well as from your lash line to your brow bone and entirely around your eyes so that the concealer is on the darkest point (by your tear ducts). This acts as a primer for your eye makeup and brings the entire eye forward, concealing redness and discolorations and giving your eyes an even and lifted appearance.
Set the concealer with a touch of pressed powder. The powder makes the concealer stay put and gives the eye shadow something to adhere to so that your makeup will last.
Apply the eyeliner to your upper lash line. Begin the line at the base of your lashes where the eyelashes begin by your inner eye. The line should start out fine, getting thicker as it goes across your lash line, and then narrow to a fine point at the outer end. If you have large eyelids, you can make the line thicker; if you have small eyelids, keep the line thin. You can extend the line slightly past your outer eye to lift and open your eyes more, but you can also end the line where your eyelashes end. If you do extend past your outer eye, there is no need to wing the line by angling it upward as it passes your outer eye. Your eye structure will create the wing for you.
Adding heavy eyeliner to your lower lash line will close up your eyes and make them look tiny. That said, applying liner to your lower lash line with a very light hand can define and make your eyes look even bigger. Apply the same shade of liner you used on your upper lash line directly onto your lower lashes, beginning the line where your eyelashes begin on your inner eye and ending where your eyelashes end at your outer eye.
This line should be very fine, appearing to simply deepen your lash line. The liner on your upper eye should be far more dramatic and still remain the focal point.
An old makeup trick is applying a white eyeliner to the inner rim of your lower lash line to extend the whites of your eyes, giving your eyes a bigger, brighter appearance. If you do this, be sure to blend the liner well so that the white is not too stark, or the effect can make you look wild-eyed. A safer option is to choose an eyeliner that’s peach or flesh-toned. I used a white pencil on the model here, and it did the trick without really being noticeable. That’s how you wear white liner in the rim of your lower lash line. It should be nearly imperceptible but extend the whites of your eyes, giving them a larger appearance.
Apply a neutral (taupe, brown, gray) eye shadow to the outer crease of your eyes and blend it back and forth. This will define the shape of your eyes without creating a made-up look. Choose a neutral that mimics the look of shadow, as in “light and shadow.”
Add a light-colored eye shadow or cream highlighter to your tear ducts and across your eyelid. Choose white, gold, peach, or pale pink shades. If you have heavy or large eyelids, opt for a deeper shade.
Apply mascara to your upper lashes. Add as many coats as desired, but no matter how many coats of mascara you add, be sure to add an extra one to your outer lashes. If you truly want your eyes to look their biggest forego applying mascara to your lower lashes.
This is a huge adjustment if you’re used to wearing mascara on your lower lashes, but the liner is sufficient to define your eyes. The liner and mascara on your upper lashes only will make your eyes appear their biggest. Eliminating mascara on your lower lashes also solves most of the complaints I hear about mascara, like running and smudging.
Fill in your eyebrows even if your eyebrows look fine to you already. Adding an eyebrow filler in the appropriate shade (see page 46) adds a bolder frame to your eyes. You can also extend your brows slightly to bring them closer together if they’re too far apart or extend the outer ends if they are too short, thus more fully framing your eyes and making your eyes appear larger.
Eye drops to try :
Visine Eye Drops, $1.99 to $7.99
Collyre Bleu Laiter Eye Drops, $39.99
Innoxa Gouttes Bleues (French Blue Eye Drops), $14.99
Eyeliners to try :
L’Oréal Infallible Never Fail Eyeliner, $8.99
Ramy Perfect Eye Wand, $24
Nars Eyeliner Stylo, $27
RAMY PRO TIP:
A great trick if you have tired eyelids is to apply eyeliner on the waterline of your upper lash line. Make sure you’re using a pen or pencil that is formulated for this so it won’t run and/or irritate your eyes. The lift to your eyes will be palpable.
Full disclosure: as a makeup artist, I rarely apply eyeliner this way on a client, because it’s a rare woman who won’t mind a sharp implement being directed at her inner eyelid. A good alternative that offers slightly less lift, but just as much impact is to apply another formula of eyeliner directly on top of the eyeliner on your upper lash line. For example, if the eyeliner you apply is a pen or pencil formula, apply a powder or cake formula on top of it with a moistened eyeliner brush. This adds dimension and intensifies your eyeliner, making it more dramatic. It will also help your liner last longer.